Hassan II mosque, Casablanca

We were on our way to the Hassan II mosque by following the minaret and we happened upon this slum where people lived in some horrendous living conditions. The irony is here is the biggest and most lavish mosque in North Africa. The site of the mosque is beautiful, just off the Atlantic coast. We weren't allowed to go anywhere near the ocean side of the mosque. To me that side is the more interesting side of the mosque. The mosque, otherwise, is sterile and was not at all worth visiting. We didn't pay to go in. All mosques in Morocco forbid entry of non muslims unlike in Egypt, where we can just go into any mosque. All mosque required us to remove our shoes, only some required us to cover our heads. In fact the custodians of all the mosques in Egypt love foreign visitors because they can extract  tips from us by showing us around.The flag of Morocco. Along the coast we can see new and expensive highrises lining the promenade and overlooking the Atlantic ocean. We had a whole day in Casablanca and we had a hard time trying to fill up our day. There wasn't very much worth seeing. Most of the international flights come in and fly out of Casablanca. That was why we were in Casablanca. The next time, we'll just fly in, stay the night and head right out the next day.

Casablanca, the market

We knew we've ventured into a different world and a different culture where all the vendors are men. They were exceedingly friendly. They've probably never seen orientals like us and have never known foreigners to take an interest in them. I took a picture of this guy, he smiled, I showed him his picture and his friends came to see it too and were envious. It was Sunday and this market was being set up. When I travel I like to see a riot of colors, a cackle of unknown languages, people dressed in different garb, have different means of transportation (there's a lot of donkey power here, I've never come this close to finding donkeys this endearing before). There'll be lots of donkeys all through future postings. This was metropolitan Casablanca, there isn't any donkeys here. Casablanca is a very modern city, the newer parts are clean and fancy, just like any other European city but who wants to see that. I came to see old Casablanca, I came to see old Morocco. The guy posed for his picture without demanding money. Most of the time we had to pay to take their pictures. We did so only when we think it was worth it. At the time of our visit, US$1 = 8.5 dirhams and 1 euro = 11 dirhams. The going rate of a tip is 10 dirhams, some demanded more but you can always wave them away and say,'no more'. We gave 20 dirhams, for some reason they seem to think that both parties should fork out something!

Casablanca, Morocco

We arrived on Saturday evening and woke up to exploring the city. Because of the late hour of arrival we hadn't got any money changed yet. We were using Euros, it was accepted. I read on a blog about ATM machines swallowing ATM cards, so I was scared of using an ATM to get some dirhams. We wandered pretty aimlessly, Casablanca, a thoroughly modern city seemed boring, there were no charm or excitement about it. The other reason probably was because it was Sunday. Soon we happened upon this neighborhood which I think is the ancient medina, a rather small area. It looked more like a slum but it had more charm, character and color than the other areas. I am sure there are some who wonder why we even want to photograph this area. This is life, pure and raw, no airbrushing. Everywhere we go in the world, we see areas like this, it reminded us of Cairo. I work in a downtown Los Angeles area where some thousands of people live in tents, cardboard box canopies, homeless, and this is their permanent situation. I am no stranger to slums. I work among these people and minister to their needs everyday.
Here, in this part of Casablanca, we met some really friendly people and we didn't meet with the same hostility we did in Cairo. We have seen these kind of areas in Palermo, Sicily also. One should be careful and not throw caution to the wind. Here in Casablanca, we only venture into here because nearby there was a huge military presence. We didn't what was going on, we still don't. So we felt safe because the army was a shouting distance away.
More about Casablanca, what to do, money and transportation coming in later posts.

Casablanca, a flea pit hotel

Oued Dahab, that's the name of the hotel. It is run by the same people that also own the Guynemer, a hotel just one block away which is a 3 star hotel and always full. They sent a car to pick us up at the airport, costs us 250 dirhams for that service. The room rate was 220 dirhams for the 2 of us (about US$26). It had mosquitoes and we were bitten. This was the only sad place that we stayed in but the rest were much better. Places like this always have vacancies because no one in their right mind stays here, maybe some locals. Most travelers stay in 3 star hotels and these are always full and reservations are recommended.
Just keep an open mind, follow this blog, before you know it, you'll be planning and executing your own adventure to Morocco. If you don't mind these conditions, Morocco is very cheap. Room rates are the highest in Marrakech but Marrakech is the 'piece de resistance'.

You can't go home again

I've always wanted to be knee deep in red poppy fields. I've been to the lavender fields of Provence and that was a wonderful experience. Next I have always wanted to be in a poppy field at the height of its season and here I was, in Morocco, just half an hour outside of Marrakech. The great thing about hiring a grand taxi, even though it is expensive, is we can ask the driver to stop at any time. I spotted this field and I couldn't resist by telling him to 'arret', or 'stop' in French. I got out, ran over a litle bridge and made straight for the poppies. Mind you, its not as if we don't have wild flowers growing all around us in Southern California. In fact, Morocco is very similar to Southern California in weather and terrain. Just 1 mile from where I live is the Ballona creek and right now the white and yellow wild flowers are blooming like the weeds that they are. About 40 miles away in Carlsbad, the Ranunculus fields are at the height of their blooming season. I saw on TV last night the orange colored California poppy is blooming in the desert not too far away in Lancaster. I loved the Moroccan landscape and I ask myself, 'do they (the Moroccans) know how lucky they are, to live in such a beautiful place?' I ask the same question of myself,'do I know how lucky I am to live in Southern California?' I do know that I am lucky and am thankful.
We met some wonderful people in Morocco. A young man on the train wanted to practise his English with us, we didn't mind. They like the USA more than we realise, more than the press would have us know. Everyone still wants to come to the USA because of the successes of the founders of Google. He'd prefer to come to the USA. What do you do in Europe as an immigrant? Dishwasher? Waiter? A German tourist once asked me on a train in Sicily,'if I had to choose, which country would I most like to emigrate to?' I still say, the USA. He asked why. I replied, it is only in the USA that an immigrant like me could make the kind of money I make, only the USA could and would use and value my contribution and skills.
We met other tourists, both foreign and American. Most of the Americans came in organised tours. The Europeans are mostly independent travelers like us. The German girl traveled for 2 and 1/2 years and when she finally returned to Hamburg, Germany, she couldn't fit in anymore. So she left and now lives in the Canary islands with her Spanish husband. She couldn't go home again.
As I did my morning walk, I saw the million dollar house on the hill (like mine) has been sold. The flowers in my neighborhood yards are blooming in such profusion, much like the wild flowers in Morocco. I saw pruple lupines, the orange and yellow nasturtiums, the pint Simplicity roses, the purple wisteria, the purple lavender and so much more. I am lucky to be living here. I can come home again. I am home.

Morocco, the magnificent

I've just stepped off an Air France jet and am at my computer uploading all the pictures I took of the trip to Morocco. We spent a few days in Brittany, France. After Morocco, France and Paris is so bland. Morocco is vibrant, colorful and alive. Before Morocco, Sicily was my most favorite place. Today, that first place has been replaced by Morocco. The food is cheap, exotic and delicious. The people were helpful and friendly. The whole place is as colorful as this water seller. Now they don't sell water, they just dress up and have their picture taken for 10 dirhams. It is the most amazing place in the world. Everyone's got to visit, it should be among the 100 things to do before dying. Put it on your bucket list.I shall be posting more over the next few days, weeks, months.... till my next trip.