Tuesday, August 23, 2011

Oguzlu














The guidebook mentioned 2 churches in the middle of the grassland which are in ruins. We managed to visit one of them at Oguzlu. The roof is completely gone. The only thing remaining are the walls. It was a beautiful drive out to see it, just gorgeous, passing through some of the most lush of grassland and the most colorful patches of wild flowers. Our taxi driver probably thought we were nuts to pay so much to come and see church ruins. I wish I could teach the whole world to value such ancient treasures, it doesn't matter if we didn't believe in the same religion. I'm reminded of the gigantic Buddha carvings that were blown out of existence in Afghanistan by the Taliban.

Monday, August 22, 2011

On our way to Cilder















It is a beautiful lake but the drive there and around it seemed to go on forever. Our taxi driver was happy, he was being paid to see the lake which he was so proud of. We had already spent a few hours at Ani but agreed to be taken to the lake not knowing the drive was so long. It wasn't far but he just drove on and on around the huge lake and I thought to myself 'we're not going all the way round the lake, I hope'. Finally we told him to turn around and head back to Kars. If you are going to Kars to visit Ani, there's no need to go to the lake. You don't miss anything. I could see a lot more churches like we did in Cappadocia. We couldn't get enough while we were in Cappadocia last year. There are churches still all around Kars but they are scattered all over and to see them would take up a lot of time. It was different in Cappadocia, they were fairly close to each other. Here at the lake, there were lush and green grasslands where the livestock grazed. Every now and then we passed yurts because the herders live on the grassland in summer with their herds. Once in a while we passed families picnicking at the lake. It was a beautiful drive but way too long.

Sunday, August 21, 2011

Leaving Ani










Maybe I will visit Ani again this lifetime..... Once in a while a visit to a place such as Ani is so life changing, it leaves one speechless. I remember one similar visit, last year to Cappadocia, to see all those cave churches. That was another incredible place and I'm hoping to return to Cappadocia next year on another swing around Turkey. If I ever return to Ani, it has to be in June. Ani in June is so glorious.

Saturday, August 20, 2011

Gagok kilise




A third church if St Gregory, the sparse remains of it begun in 998 by Trdat, the great Armenian architect. This is also the fate of many churches in other parts of Turkey, rubble. Besides these Armenian churches in Ani, there are others that are scattered further afield outside of Ani. We only had time for one which we visited the next day. This visit was already proving to be too emotional.

Friday, August 19, 2011

Church of St Gregory

 The second church of St Gregory. St Gregory seems to be a popular Armenian saint, having 2 churches built in its honor in one town.













Its unusual for its round shape.