It's a one street town, new roads and new buildings. At the entry to town, the Chinese army had their headquarters. The population is 50% Tibetans, 40% Han Chinese and 10% Hui Chinese. The town is divided into three sections also, with each of the 3 groups having their own sections. The Tibetans lives closest to the monastery, this being their town and everyone exists because of the size and importance of the monastery. We are seeing the Tibetan part of town. Lonely Planet only recommended the Tibetan hotels. Our driver, being Han Chinese tried to get us into a Han Chinese hotel but we were adament about picking a Tibetan place.
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