Mystra

Today we look for flat land to place our cities but in the olden days all settlements are built on top of hills or on hillsides. This is to be able to see the enemies coming and mount a defense. Mystra is no different, in its heyday was a rich community but today only a few churches survived and are being somewhat restored. If there's only time for one place in the Peloponnese, Mystra should be it. The Peloponnese during Byzantine days was called the Morea. Even as the Byzantine empire flourished, the crusaders under the Roman church did a lot of damage to weaken it with the eventual collapse of the Byzantine empire, when in its weakened state fell to the Ottomans.
The first death knell was the fall of Constantinople to the crusaders of the fourth crusade and the royal court of the Byzantines left for Nicea (Turkey) and later to Trebizond (in the Black sea coast of Turkey) and finally to Mystra in the Morea. The Byzantine empire, now established itself in Mystra which became the last capital of the Byzantine empire. But not long after lost again to the crusaders and the crusaders ruled from Mystra for some years before losing out to the next Byzantine emperor who at this time was just a despot. But for 200 years Mystra flourished as a center for learning and culture before finally succumbing to the invasion of the Ottoman Turks. That marked the end of the Byzantine empire and the Greek dominion in Europe.
Mystra was the last place in the Byzantine empire where  churches were built and had frescoes painted. Some still remains in the ruined churches on this hillside. Sophie asked me if I can return to any place I've been to, which one would it be. I couldn't answer it at that time but after writing this, I can say, I would like to return to Mystra. Mystra in spring is absolutely beautiful. The frescoes looked very alike those in the church at Chora in Istanbul. It is purported that the same craftsmen left for both Trebizond (where frescoes are still available for viewing) and also for Mystra where they continue their art.
The visitors, the few that came, were mostly Greeks. Mystra is 3 miles from Sparta and there is regular bus that goes there. We went by taxi and returned by taxi. Even so we didn't have enough time to see the whole place. We arrived at noon in Sparta and after wandering around trying to grapple the layout of the city, find a hotel, had lunch, there wasn't enough time left as the site closes at 3pm in the winter months.